How to choose a reputable HVAC technician in your area

This answer is pretty short and sweet. Unless you have someone that you know personally and trust to do the work, or if you have faith in someone else's recommendation, the best advice I can offer is to go to http://www.angieslist.com/. That is what that site is there for, so that you can go there to find a trustworthy technician in many fields, and also see the customer comments and ratings of others that have used their services before. It's one step beyond "Well, I know a guy"...

Thanks for stopping by and if you have any questions or need assistance in locating repair parts please call Toll Free to (866) 432-8551 or visit us at http://www.americanhvacparts.com/.

Hurricane Irene put your house underwater. Will you need to replace the entire heating system?

No, not necessarily. Once the water subsides, and the house drains, as with everything else in there, it needs to dry. So after giving it the proper amout of time, once all the moisture is gone, you can begin to troubleshoot the unit.

First off, I can tell you that the unit will not work. There are several electrical components in these systems that will fry when wet because they are, well... electrical. But there are a lot of mechanical parts in the unit as well. So if you replace the electrical components the system should go back to normal. Can this be expensive? Yes. But still less expensive in most cases than replacing the entire unit and having the new one installed and the old one hauled away.

Some people may want to attempt this project themselves which is fine, but if you are inexperienced you may want to call out a tech for diagnostics. Odds are he will tell you to replace all the components or to replace the whole unit, so I just say replacing all the parts yourself is the better gamble. At least all the parts will be new and unaffected by any water so that should get you up and running without paying the price for a technician.

Ductwork can be a different issue. Depending on the length of time under water, and when drying, the humidity factor in the attic etc, mildew and even bacteria growth can start to occur in the ducting itself. While it may just seem that it smells bad, when the system is back up and running, that bacteria can be sent airborne into your home, being breathed in by yourself and your family. Ducting is fairly inexpensive and rather easy to install, so you should just bite the bullet and replace it all. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks for stopping by, and if you have any questions or assistance in locating repair parts, please call Toll Free (866) 432-8551 or visit us at http://www.americanhvacparts.com/.

Good bye spring and summer, hello fall and winter. What to do to prepare...

The warm, sunny months are coming to an end soon, and Jack Frost is about to come out and play. It is this time when the weather is still in between seasons that it is wise to do a little pre-season check up and maintenance to keep you from being, well... left out in the cold. Run down the following steps and you should be set for a cozy and uneventful winter season.

With there being different types of heating equipment used across the country, there are different maintenance steps for each system. Here I will list them by type:

Gas Furnace -
1. Turn on the furnace and make sure that the gas valve kicks on and the burners start going and the wheel starts blowing. If everything goes off without a hitch you are in good shape. In some furnaces, they have what is known as a standing pilot which means that the pilot is constantly lit. To conserve energy and money, some people will shut the gas to the furnace off during the warmer months. The common mistake is that it is left off for the duration until the weather gets cold again and then when trying to relight the furnace it wont light because a valve has gone bad, an igniter is burnt out, etc. A big plus to checking this out before it's crunch time.
2. It is always good to have spares of common parts such as igniters, flame sensors, limit switches, a gas valve, a capacitor and a motor. Sounds expensive, but when weighed against the potential costs of frozen pipes, electric space heaters, or even hotel rooms, it is a small price to pay to be prepared. Sure, many companies offer next day air and such, but when weather conditons get out of hand, they can effect the rate of travel on your parts getting to you which just extends the time you are without heat.Look at what just happened with hurrican Irene. The eastern sea board was under water for days and nothing went in or out. Think ahead.

Heat Pump -
1. Turn on the system and have the system change from cool to heat. If this works, then your reversing valve is functioning properly. Heat pumps are a bit trickier to diagnose if you are not sure what you are doing, so in this case you may want to call out a tech so that he can test all of the components as heat pumps are more electrical than mechanical.
2. Stock up on spares. Capacitors, contactors, solenoid coils, defrost boards, etc. If a tech came out, they should be able to suggest anything that they think you might need as a "just in case" precaution.

Electric Air Handler -
1. Turn the system on to call for heat. If you are running an air handler with no heat pump, then you will be using electric strip heat. Observe the heat strip and make sure all the coils are glowing red hot. As long as the blower is running and the coils are glowing, you stand to be in pretty good shape.
2. Again, spare parts. Sequencers, capacitors, fan timer boards, blower motor, blower relays. The same is recommended to call a tech if you are not sure what you do or may need.

It never hurts to have a tech come out and do a maintenance inspection for you if you are not sure what you are doing. It will cast you a few extra bucks, but at least you will be ready whne the time comes. And as always, make sure your air filters are clean and changed regularly. Follow these few tips and you should be in for a toasty heating season.

Thanks for stopping by, and if you have any questions or assistance in finding parts please call Toll Free (866) 432-8551 or visit us at http://www.americanhvacparts.com/.

Not sure if the repair part you received is correct? Follow these steps to find out...

Ok, so ordering repair parts online of any kind can be a risky gamble. Whether it's parts for a computer, a car or even HVAC you have to be able to trust that the people running the business know what they are doing to ensure you get the right part the first time. Typically, if you go to a company that specializes in any certain line of parts, it's a pretty safe bet you will be ok. But there are those times that mistakes happen. The information you provided when ordering the part may have been incorrect, the operator may have taken the information down wrong, or the part may have simply been incorrectly pulled off of the shelf. Then there are times where you may think you have gotten the wrong part but the manufacturer has changed the appearance or part number, or the product may now be made by a different manufacturer all together.Another possibility is that you may have opted to go with a less expensive aftermarket part which will look different as well. Here I will help you to know what to do to determine whether the part you received is correct or not.

To do this, you are essentially going to start over from the beginning with the company you purchased the part from. It is always a great idea to get the name of the person who assisted you in case you need to travel this route. They may have some notes from your original call, or just remember helping you, so this way it may be quicker and easier to get to the bottom of the problem.You will want to do the following to get this started:

1. Provide all of the same information that you provided originally, then also go back to the equipment and verify that the information you provided is correct and the same.
2. Provide the part numbers from the part(s) you are replacing.
3. Provide the part number that you received.

So that's really it. Just as if you were placing the call for the first time, you will provide all of the information. The operator should then be able to determine in a reasonable amount of time whether the part that you received is correct, incorrect, been modified, been upgraded, is universal or ios made by a new company. After this determination has been made, if the wrong part was sent a reputable company will take care of this for you right away. There are different policies that each company has to handle situations like this, so it is best to ask the operator when handling the problem. If the part is correct, universal, upgraded, modified or made by a new company, the operator should also be able to assist you in some fashion to ease you mind and provide instruction whether written or digital, or a direct contact to the company's tech support for assistance in making the part switch.

As usual, thank you for stopping by and if you have any questions or require assistance in ordering any parts, please call Toll Free (866) 432-8551 or you can visit us at http://www.americanhvacparts.com/.

How to diagnose a gas furnace

When it comes to diagnosing a gas furnace, there a quite a few more parts in play here than with a condensing unit. There is a transformer, an inducer (vent) motor, a pressure switch, a door switch, a circuit board, a gas valve, an igniter, a flame sensor, burners, limit switches, fan switches, a blower motor and a blower wheel. As you see there are many more possibilities of what could be causing your problems as opposed to the case with a condensing unit. But it doesn’t mean you have to call a tech to figure it out, it just means we need to know what the problem is from the get go.

 

Because of all of the variables here, we cannot list them all. We have however in previous blogs touched on certain topics of what may be the cause for your problem depending on the situation. As we are adding new tips frequently, it shouldn’t be long before your problem is addressed if not already there. If you do not see the problem you are having listed, we can still be of assistance by calling us at Toll Free (866) 432-8551 or you can visit our website at http://www.americanhvacparts.com/.

How to diagnose an outdoor condensing unit

When it comes to diagnosing an outdoor condensing unit, the process is pretty easy. In a standard condensing unit, there are only a few parts in the unit. There is a contactor, a fan motor, a compressor and a capacitor. These parts all work in tandem. The way a condenser works is the thermostat sends a signal to the contactor. When this happens, the contactor becomes magnetized and pulls down the bridge completing the power circuit from one side of the contactor to the other. On one end of the contactor, there are 2 wires which are the live 220 volt power lines coming from the house. At the other end of the contactor, there are the wires from the compressor and the fan motor. So once the power bridge has been engaged, the compressor and fan motor are now supplied with power and should begin to run. The capacitor which is connected to the compressor and fan motor is simply a start assistant to help them both get running. The compressor’s purpose is to pump refrigerant into the house to provide the cool air, and the purpose of the fan motor is to suck air through the coil and keep the refrigerant and unit cool. Now that you know the functions, you can begin the process of diagnosing the unit.

 

At this point, you will need to run down a check list such as the one below...

 

1. Is the contactor engaging when the thermostat is turned on and calling for cooling?

    a) If yes, then proceed to step 2.

    b) If not, you will need to test the line voltage from the thermostat wire to see that you are getting 24 volts. If there is 24 volts, the contactor is bad. If not, the thermostat wire could have a break in the line somewhere or the thermostat itself could be bad.

2. When the contactor engages, what happens? Does the motor run and not the compressor? Or vice-versa? Or nothing at all?

    a) If one or the other runs but not both, the problem could be either a bad motor or compressor or a bad capacitor. If the motor is not running, try spinning the blade with a stick to see if it gets going. If it does, it is the capacitor. If it doesn’t, it most likely means the motor is bad and will need to be replaced along with a new capacitor. If the motor is running but not the compressor, unless you have the tools to test the capacitor, you will want to replace the capacitor. If after replacing the capacitor the compressor still does not run, your compressor is bad and will need to be replaced.

    b) If nothing at all begins to run, odds are it is just the capacitor. It is highly unlikely that the compressor and fan motor would fail at the same time. Either way, the capacitor is going to be the least expensive part to try first.

3. Are all the parts functioning but you are still not getting any cool air?

If this is the case, you are likely to be low on freon which should only be happening if there is a leak somewhere in the system. Only thing left to do now is call a tech.

 

So there you have it. Diagnosing the condensing unit in 3 simple steps. For more helpful tips, keep checking back here for our latest blog entry. For any parts needs, please visit www.americanhvacparts.com or call toll free to 866-432-8551.

My ac works, and it blows cold, but for some reason it takes a while to cool down the house. Why?

In this entry, I refer you back to my last blog where I addressed the issue of the house not retaining the cool air. Make sure all doors and windows are sealed and blinds are closed. That will help ensure that the air is not escaping or being superheated by the sunlight. Beyond that, there are a few potential reasons why this is happening.

When you have an issue like this, most likely there has not been any maintenance on the system for a while. And this is something that you can do yourself rather than calling out a technician. Maintaining your unit is imperative to having the highest efficiency and extending the life of your equipment. Simple yet effective fixes are available and at little to no cost to you other than a little of your time.

First of all, check your filter. If your filter is dirty and clogged, it is essentially choking your system for air. If it’s dirty, change it. They are cheap, and very easy to replace.

Next, open your furnace up and inspect your blower wheel. Over time, the wheel can build up dust and dirt and wind up caking the blades reducing the ability to scoop the air. An easy fix to this is to take a vacuum with a hose attachment and vacuum the blades, but the most effective fix which takes a bit more time is to take out the wheel and wash it off completely. Removing all that build up will make a HUGE difference.

Then there are some variables that may be the cause. Your air blows through a coil which produces the cold air. Sometimes the underside of the coil can get clogged with a blanket of dust, dirt and lint, thereby reducing the ability of the air to get through as easy. It’s like cleaning the lint trap on your dryer. It all sticks together, so just grab a corner and start rolling and it will all come out together.

Have you checked your ducts lately? Depending on where you live, there may be rodent problems and they love to chew things. So there may be some tears in your ductwork from that, or just tears from age. Also, the duct may have came loose somewhere. Without a sealed system, you won’t get the maximum airflow. Check to make sure all connections are tight and sealed, and any tears can usually be sealed with some simple everyday… you guessed it… duct tape.

Are there rooms that are rarely used in your home? This is another way that the air may not be moving properly if you are cooling rooms that don’t have the need. Simply just close the dampers on the vents in those rooms. By reducing the amount of open vents, you are forcing the air to the remaining open ones and the back pressure will make the air blow stronger.

That’s really all there is to it. Like I said before, simple. For more helpful tips, keep checking back here for our latest blog entry. For any parts needs, please visit www.americanhvacparts.com or call toll free to 866-432-8551.

When I run my ac, the house gets cool. But when I shut it off, the house heats up again quickly. Why?

This is a pretty simple diagnosis. Just like with anything, the best way to maintain a certain temperature is to have a sealed environment. For instance, if you are driving your car and you are running the ac, the car stays cool. When you shut it off, it will stay cool for a while. But if you open a window, even just a crack, that cool air dissipates rather quickly right? Same principal applies with your house. And that goes for heating and cooling season. Follow these few simple steps and reduce your energy consumption and retain your desired temperatures longer.

1.       Make sure all doors and windows are closed.

2.       If there are any gaps under doors, seal them off with a towel.

3.       In cooling season, close all blinds as heat from the sun will radiate through the windows making it harder to cool the home. If you don’t mind a darker environment, covering the windows with a dark blanket or a drape will keep that heat out that much more.

4.       Get a couple high velocity oscillating fans. These will circulate the cool air once the temperature desired is achieved allowing you to stay cool yet reduce the amount of time you run the air conditioner. I speak from personal experience here. Those fans are fantastic and a good one will run around $50, and believe me, the investment is well worth it.

5.       If you have the means, resealing your windows is a great idea. You can pick up some sealer at any local hardware store.

That’s really all there is to it. Like I said before, simple. For more helpful tips, keep checking back here for our latest blog entry. For any parts needs, please visit www.americanhvacparts.com or call toll free to 866-432-8551.

Determining the size of your outdoor heat pump condenser unit: Is it properly sized for the home?

In most all cases, the equipment model number has the size of the unit included in the model number. This is referred to as the horsepower (H.P.) or as tons, but ultimately it is referring to the BTU’s (British Thermal Units). It is very important to have the proper sized system for your home to prevent excessive use and high energy costs, as well as adequate efficiency. For example, say your model number looks something like 58MAV036000AAAA… this is a typical sequence for a Carrier unit. The 036 indicates the BTU’s, so that translates into 36,000 BTU’s.

This information as stated before will also be referred to as H.P. or tons. One ton is 12,000 BTU’s, or one H.P.. So with a 036 or a 36,000 BTU unit, this would be known as a 3 ton unit, or a 3 H.P.. Pretty simple right? Next I’ll address how to make sure the unit is the proper size for your house.

Easiest rule of thumb is just to remember 500 square feet is equivalent to one ton. So if your house has 1500 square feet, that would be how many tons? If you said 3 you’re correct. Not really rocket surgery is it? Now we can review by taking a look at the chart I have provided below.

500 square feet = 12,000 BTU’s = 1 Ton = 1 H.P.

1000 square feet = 24,000 BTU’s = 2 Tons = 2 H.P.

1500 square feet = 36,000 BTU’s = 3 Tons = 3 H.P.

2000 square feet = 48,000 BTU’s = 4 Tons = 4 H.P.

2500 square feet = 60,000 BTU’s = 5 Tons = 5 H.P. and so on…

So there you have it. Sizing and verifying the condenser or heat pump size broken down for the easiest calculation. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us toll free at (866) 432-8551 or visit us at http://www.americanhvacparts.com/

Heat Pump, Condenser or Furnace, OH MY! Choosing the proper replacement thermostat

In this week’s episode, we are going to explore the process of choosing the proper thermostat for your system. There are quite a few different choices, so it is important to know the type of system you have. With all the different systems, this can be a bit confusing, but don’t fret… we are here to help. Alright then, let’s start by listing the various types of thermostats and what they are used with.

There are:

•1 Heat/1 Cool – Used with standard gas or electric heat and electric a/c units & are typically 24 volt

• 2 Heat/1 Cool – Used with heat pump, gas or electric heat units and electrical a/c units & are typically 24 volt

• 2 Heat/2 Cool - Used with heat pump, gas or electric heat units and electrical a/c units & are typically 24 volt

• 3 Heat/2 Cool – Used with Multi Zone, heat pump, gas or electric heat units and electrical a/c units & are typically 24 volt

• Millivolt – Used with millivolt (Usually wall heating units or cooling units)

• Line Voltage – Used with 120/240 volt systems (Usually like an attic fan application)

• Evaporator Cooler – Used with evaporator coolers

These can also have variances of but not limited to…

• Programmable

• Non-Programmable

• Commercial

• Residential

• Wireless

• Heating only

• Cooling Only

• Phone controlled

• Internet controlled

• Remote Controlled etc…

Then there are the different manufacturers. Here are some of the most common types:

•Honeywell

• Robertshaw

• Johnson Controls

• Totaline

• White-Rodgers

• Lux

The best advice that can be given to replace a thermostat is to compare to what you already have. This gives you a good place to start in terms of what you will need. You can also take a part number from your existing thermostat and use that to either locate the direct replacement or a functional equivalent. If you are just not sure, you can always visit www.americanhvacparts.com or call toll free to (866) 432-8551 for assistance in finding the perfect fit replacement for you and your system’s needs. It is NOT recommended that you just pick one because you like how it looks, or the back light is a pretty blue or any other non-educated reason because it probably won’t work once you get it. And most places will not take back electrical parts, so if you just aren’t sure get the help you need. That is what we are here for, you the homeowner and helping you make the right choice the first time.

Your compressor failed… Now what?

Well this is a kind of bittersweet situation. A compressor is the most expensive part that can go out in your air conditioner or heat pump, so replacing it can become fairly pricey. This is also an item that cannot be replaced without the assistance of a professional, so there will be some technician costs that will be incurred as well. Already sounds pretty depressing right? Well, the plus side of this is that you don’t have to replace the whole system as some technicians may try to tell you. This is false. A compressor can be replaced fairly easy. It just takes the right information.

First, you will need to locate the model number from the condenser or heat pump. If this information is not available, the next step is to get the model number from off of the compressor itself. Once you are armed with the right information, you can contact a company such as www.americanhvacparts.com and provide what you have. Locating the correct replacement is going to be simple for them at that point.

The key here if you are wanting to purchase the replacement on your own instead of from the technician, is that you will want to make sure to arrange installation for when you get the compressor. Many technicians will not want to come out and install a part that you have obtained, because they want to sell you the item as well as do the work. So that’s why it is important to have a pre arranged agreement with your tech so that there are no surprises for him or you.

Now that the compressor has arrived and the technician is on his way, here is a rundown of what to expect. The tech will come out and begin to open the unit. Once the old failed compressor is exposed, your tech will take what is called a vacuum pump and evacuate the refrigerant from the system. Condensers and heat pumps are highly pressurized with the refrigerant gas, so that is why it is necessary to have this done first. After the refrigerant has been recovered and the system completely pumped down, the tech will next cut out the old compressor. After it has been removed, the new compressor can be seated in the unit and the lines brazed or welded in. The next step in the process is to pump the system back up with the refrigerant. The tech should now run a pressure test to make certain that there are no leaks. Assuming the job was done properly, that’s pretty much that. The time you may pay out to the technician will usually average around $300-$500, as this will also include the charges for the new refrigerant.

Now turn your system on and enjoy the cool air and the savings you made by replacing the compressor and not the whole system.

How to install an aftermarket condenser fan motor

AmericanHVACParts.com does not encourage or recommend that any uncertified or unqualified persons attempt these repairs. This information is for informational purposes only and AmericanHVACParts.com will not be held liable for any damages or injuries by attempting to make these repairs. 

The first thing to do to get this process going is to identify which motor you need. To do this, the best way to start is by going to the condensing unit or heat pump that the motor is coming out of and getting the model and serial numbers. There should be a label affixed to the outside of the unit, usually towards the back of the unit which will most likely be the side closest to the house or building. Sometimes, the unit has been installed so close, you will have to use a mirror and try to decipher the model number backwards in the reflection, but nonetheless, it can be done. In the event that the label is illegible or has been bleached away from years of sun exposure or other elements, there is still a way to make the identification on what you will need.

Ok, so the model number just isn’t there. What’s next? Now the unit will have to be opened up to get the information from the motor itself. If you are not familiar with what you are doing, we highly recommend that you retain the services of a professional to assist you. Now that the unit is opened up, your attention should be directed to the condenser motor. There will be a label on the side of the motor that will have lots of information on it. The first thing you will want to look for is any part or model numbers. Typically if the motor has never been replaced, there will be 2 identification numbers there. The important thing is to get as much information as possible. Get all part numbers, model numbers, just any numbers at all. Because if for any reason the numbers are not able to be located, we can assist you in finding it by the specifications. The key information besides part numbers in locating a motor are as follows:

-RPM’s

-Horsepower

-Voltage

-Phase

-Frame or Diameter size

-Shaft size

-Rotation (Not so important as most aftermarket motors are reversible)

With this information, a replacement can be matched up fairly easy. Now that a replacement has been found, it’s time to get that beauty purchased and on its way to you and don’t forget the capacitor. You’re more than half way there. Now that you have the motor, again we recommend retaining the services of a professional, but even they might have some confusion as to how to install it, so these are instructions for their convenience as well as for your knowledge. AND ALWAYS DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY KIND OF REPAIRS.

Most OEM condenser motors have only 3 wires… a power wire, a common wire and a capacitor wire. The old motor would be connected to a dual capacitor (described in earlier posts) which the new motor will NOT be using. So the old motor will be disconnected from the dual capacitor and removed, leaving the dual capacitor in the unit as it will continue to run your compressor. The new motor will come with 5 wires in almost all cases when replacing an OEM motor with an aftermarket motor. The wires will be black, purple, green, brown and brown with a white stripe. There will also be 2 wires that come out from the back of the motor and go back into the motor. These are connected in the middle with a white plastic plug, but we’ll come back to that later. The black and purple wires will connect to the contactor on the opposite side of the contactor from where the live power wires that come from the house are connected. The brown and brown with white will go to the new capacitor, one wire to each of the 2 terminals. It doesn’t matter which each brown wire goes to as you cannot reverse the polarity of a single run capacitor. Next affix the green wire to the actual unit casing to establish a ground. After everything is wired in and the unit put back together, everything should fire up fine. In the event that the blade is spinning in the wrong direction, disconnect power once again, gain access to the motor and locate the 2 wires on the back of the motor that connect with the plastic white plug. To reverse the rotation, just pull that plug apart, flip one side over and plug it back together. And there you have it.

AmericanHVACParts.com does not encourage or recommend that any uncertified or unqualified persons attempt these repairs. This information is for informational purposes only and AmericanHVACParts.com will not be held liable for any damages or injuries by attempting to make these repairs.  

How to find the proper size supply or return grille for your home or office

The first thing to do when you have grilles to replace is identify the type and style. Is it a supply where the air blows out of the register? Or is it a return that the air gets sucked back into the system? Next is to identify the style. There are 3 basic styles to choose from. There is stamp faced, where the louvers have been stamped into and raised up out of the metal. Bar style is where the grille has a frame and individual bars making up the louvers. Then there is curve blade, where the blades actually extend out from the face of the register and curve, creating a more direct and intentional air flow.

When it's time to replace your grilles, which are often also called vents or registers, the information needed is pretty basic and easy to get. Many people will measure the overall size of the grille, but this is the incorrect way to go about it and will land you with a grille that is just too big to fit. The proper way to size up your register is to actually remove the register from the wall, floor or ceiling and set it aside for now.

Next, you will actually be measuring the cut out, or hole size. You will need to get the width as well as the height, and then present the measurements in this order when obtaining your replacement. For example, let's say you measured a width of 16" and a height of 10". If you ask for a 16"x10", you will get the proper size. But, if you ask for a 10"x16", you will wind up with a register that is 10" wide and 16" tall, so the orientation will be backwards. It will still fit, but the air flow will not be proper for your application. And it will look kind of funny and out of place.

The overall dimension of the new grille will be larger than your measurements, and this is fine. That is why we measure the hole and not the overall dimension. There will be a 1 7/8" lip going around the whole grille, and this is to cover paint marks, holes etc.

And that's really all there is to finding a replacement register. You can take a look at all the various types and styles by clicking on the link for supply grilles, and for returns. And if you are interested in some specialty wood or decorative grilles, you can click here.

5 myths revealed: What your technician may or may not tell you…

Parts are obsolete:

This is more often than not a false claim. Repair parts are made by a variety of different manufacturers, so just because the original part you had may no longer be available, there is usually a functional if not exact direct replacement out there. It just takes a little digging, and sometimes you might have to be the one to pick up the shovel. You have to keep in mind, it is more time efficient and profitable for the technician to just replace a unit versus having to try and source your part and then come back and install it. And some companies just don’t have enough cross reference information or tools available to be able to find that other replacement. The internet is a very powerful tool. Before succumbing to the technician’s claims, you may just want to take a trip on the information super highway.

The manufacturer is out of business:

Again, this is usually false. There are a few companies that have fizzled out over the years, but that is literally only a few. And just because they might have gone out of business, it still does not mean that you can’t find a replacement part. Think of your unit like a car. Sure, the body style and emblem tells you what brand it is such as a Chevy, but not all of the components inside and under the hood are made by Chevy. They source out different companies to make certain parts for them and then they install them into the vehicle. This is the same with heating and air conditioning units. You may have a Lennox unit, but the contactor could be made by White-Rodgers, the motor by GE, the circuit board by Robertshaw and a compressor by Copeland. If your repair part can’t be found by the Lennox unit model number, it usually can be found by a part number from the part itself.

R-22 compressors are no longer available:

We hear this one a lot. While it is true that R-22 refrigerant is being phased out, this is not going to be til around 2018. In the meantime, Copeland, Bristol and Tecumseh among other manufacturers will continue to produce the R-22 units. They are not defunct, they are not illegal.

The repair part you picked up is incorrect for your unit:

While this is quite a possibility depending where you go for your part and what information you used to find it, I can speak for our company in saying that this is an absolute rarity. As long as you provide the correct information from your unit or part, and not from a manual that came with the unit then you should be in good shape. The manuals that come with the units are sometimes a reference guide for a gambit of units in the same series, so it won’t provide the correct or complete model number information. And sometimes the manual that you get isn’t for the unit you actually have at all, so always reference the equipment or part for the part or model number information. That being said, with the correct information, sometimes the repair part has been upgraded or switched to a different manufacturer, which will usually result in a part that looks a lot different. So what. Like the old saying goes, looks can be deceiving. And there are some technicians that will tell you that you have the wrong part. Some because they are unaware of the upgrade or change in manufacturer, and some because they would rather you buy the part from them. If they tell you the part you got is incorrect, before you take their word for it, contact the company you placed the order with and go over everything once again. What can usually be done here is the company will double check all cross references that were made against the part that you were shipped, and assuming the information all points back to the same part, documentation and proof along with replacement wiring instructions can be provided. Now, I cannot speak for all other companies, but I can say that for certain with parts purchased from AmericanHVACParts.com.

And the 5^th and BIGGEST myth of all…

Your unit or entire system needs to be replaced:

This is the most common and most outrageous claim we tend to hear from our customers. For even the smallest and most common parts, customers will call us and explain how they were told that because their contactor or capacitor or motor is bad that the entire unit or even worse, the entire system is in need of replacing. This can sometimes, on a very rare occasion be true. VERY RARE. We would highly advise that you either get a 2^nd or 3^rd opinion, or simply call us and describe the situation. Most often it is a quick simple fix that can be done by yourself without having to call out a technician again, and for a fraction of the cost of what the whole new replacement system would cost. I can’t say it enough, use the internet. That’s what it is there for is information, and there is a wealth of it out there to be found. You just might surprise yourself with how much time, money and headache can be saved just by crawling along the world wide web or simply call us at (866) 432-8551.

Split System Air Conditioner Not Working: Diagnosing the problem

It’s the peak of summer, and the heat couldn’t be any worse. You go to your thermostat and turn on the air conditioning expecting an icy summer treat to bring the temperature in your house down to a comfortable temperature. The blower kicks on, but there is no cool air coming out of the vents. Your mind goes into a panic with thoughts racing through your head… What should I do? Do I call a technician? How much is this going to cost me? Do I have to replace the whole outdoor unit? Don’t fret just yet. There are ways of diagnosing the system fairly easy without having to be a technician or calling one out, and odds are it probably is an easy and affordable fix.

Ok, so where do you start? That is a good question. First off we need to identify what’s happening at the unit. So with the thermostat set for cool and the fan inside running, you will need to go to the outdoor unit and make a visual and audible observation. These split condenser units are fairly simple with only a few parts in them. There would be a compressor, a contactor, a fan motor, a fan blade, and a capacitor.

Now let’s run down the items and determine what’s happening here.

Is the fan motor running and the blade spinning?

Is the compressor running?

Are both the compressor and fan motor not running at all?

If either of the motor or the compressor are working but the other item is not, then this is a pretty simple diagnosis. If the compressor is running but the fan motor is not, or vice versa, chances are it is just a capacitor issue. This is definitely the least expensive part to purchase if you are uncertain. To tell, simply take a stick and fish it down through the fan guard and try to spin the blade. If it kicks on, it is a bad capacitor for sure. If not, then your motor is bad and you would want to replace both the motor and the capacitor. If the motor is running and the compressor is not, then by changing the capacitor you will know if the compressor is bad by whether or not it fires up at that point. If after changing the capacitor the compressor does not kick on, then your compressor is bad. If neither of the compressor or motor is running, you can easily find the culprit to this problem. You will need to locate the access panel and remove it. If you follow the power lines coming from the house to the unit, the part that they are going to connect to is the contactor. On the top of the contactor there is a plunger style button, which when electricity is applied to the contactor coil, it becomes a magnet and pulls in that button bridging the live power across the contactor thereby giving power to the compressor and fan motor. If you turn the unit on and the button is not pulling in, this will tell you that either the contactor is bad, or the thermostat is not providing power to the contactor. To know for sure, take something non-conductive, like a stick, and push in the button. If you do this and the power to the compressor and fan kicks on, then we have identified the location of the problem. All there is left to do is verify that there is power coming to the contactor from the thermostat by using a volt meter on the thermostat wire. If there is power, the contactor is bad. If there is none, then there is a break somewhere between the thermostat and the wire. Tracing the wire to the break will tell you that the thermostat is either not sending a signal, or if the wire has a dead spot.

And that’s pretty much the jist of diagnosing your condenser problems. If you have determined what part you need, you can visit our website or call us and we would be happy to assist you in locating the part you need. Have a cool summer.

Maintaining your HVAC system: Why and How?

So, your allergies are kicking up when you’re at home and you’re not sure why? Think back to the last time you changed your air filter. How long ago was that? If it was any more than 3 months ago, you’re already late my friend. It is recommended that your air filter be changed at least 4 times a year. And especially if you are prone to allergies. For those with a serious problem with allergies, you may want to look into an electrostatic air filter, an electronic air cleaner or even a UV filtration system. These little changes can make a world of difference in caring for your health.

Think that’s all there is to maintenance? Wrong. That is just the easiest to reach tip of the ice berg. So what else can you do? Follow along…

Ok, well depending on your set up, you will either have only an indoor air handler or furnace if your system is for heating only, so let’s start there. Just like your home, you might not do much to mess it up, but dust and dirt still settles and collects in corners and crevices. This is the same for your indoor blower unit. Over time, dirt and dust collects and settles in the unit, which eventually gets kicked up into the duct work and blown back into your house, and you breathe it in without even knowing. YUCK! This settlement can also go toward clogging your coil over time, thereby reducing air flow and cooling capacity. Luckily, there is an easy solution to preventing this. All you need is a household vacuum with a hose attachment. It only takes a few minutes, and a few times a year to prevent a headache in the future. Just vacuum it out, and you’re done.

Now when it comes to your outdoor unit, whether that be a heat pump, condensing unit or package unit, the maintenance is still roughly the same. Your outdoor unit collects much more dust and dirt from being out in the elements, as well as bugs and spiders, leaves and twigs, even the possible occasional rodent. I’m just kidding about the rodent… or am I? Anyhow, again, just take a vacuum with a hose attachment, preferably a shop vac style in this case, and vacuum it out every few months. It only takes a few minutes, and can extend the life of your unit.

Another thing for maintaining an outdoor unit is to take a garden hose and wash down the condenser coil every so often. This will keep it clear of debris, allowing for a smoother airflow through the coil. Sometimes, things can even happen that smash your coil fins flat, once again restricting airflow. There is a kit you can purchase that is inexpensive, that will allow you to comb through those fins leaving them straight and allowing for that smooth air flow through the coil. It is called a, what else, Fin Comb Kit and is available for purchase at our site. Just click the link below. There is also something called coil cleaner which you can spray on your coil for added cleaning and just simply rinse away leaving a fresh lemon scent behind, which I have also included as a link below.

	Fin Comb Kit for Condendenser & Evaporater Coils. Code:TOLFC636 Price: $23.44

	Blast-A-Coil Cleaner for Condensers, Evaporators and Room Air Conditioners. (GROUND SHIP ONLY) Code:COIBAC20 Price: $24.99

For those of you who have a HVAC system that is still under warranty, did you know many of the contracts pertaining to these warranties stipulate that you have to have a certified technician come out once to twice a year to inspect and maintain the units in order not to void your warranty? Just some food for thought, you might want to break out those warranty forms and give them a quick glance just to be certain. I realize calling out a tech once or twice a year for maintenance can be a bit costly, but in retrospect of what the charges for fixing or replacing your system by not doing that can be much more expensive and time consuming in the long run.

As long as you follow these few simple tips, you should see fewer problems and a longer life come out of your HVAC system.

O.E.M. parts vs. Aftermarket or Universal parts: What’s the difference?

O.E.M. stands for Original Equipment Manufacturer, which basically means if you order a part that is O.E.M., it will be a direct factory replacement part straight from your equipment’s manufacturing factory warehouse. Sometimes O.E.M. is the only option available for replacing a part, depending on how special the part may be. For instance, let’s say you are wanting to replace a condenser fan motor for your outdoor condensing or heat pump unit. In some cases, the motors will be designed with an odd RPM or be an ECM motor, otherwise known as an Electronically Controlled Motor. These are cases where you can’t just go with an aftermarket or universal part. You would have to go with the O.E.M. which will always be much more expensive than an aftermarket part.  But then again, there are a lot of times when using an aftermarket is perfectly fine. It all just depends on the particular unit you have.

So then what’s the real difference? Well, there are certain specifications that need to be matched up depending which part you are looking to replace. As long as there is nothing really special to that part’s inner workings, finding an aftermarket replacement is fairly easy. Part numbers in a situation like this will ultimately be your best friend.

For instance: For these types of parts if a part number is not available, the important points are…

Blower motors or condenser fan motors:  

1.       HP or horsepower

2.       RPM

3.       Voltage

4.       Phase

5.       Positioning and mounting

6.       Rotation

7.       Diameter

Fan Blades:

1.       Number of blades

2.       Hub size

3.       Rotation looking at the hub side

4.       Pitch degree of the blades

Contactors:

1.       Amps

2.       Voltage

3.       Coil voltage

4.       Number of poles

Gas Valves:

1.       These are a bit tricky. The best suggestion here would be to get the part numbers from the valve itself. As an example, let’s say you have a Carrier furnace. Carrier does not actually make the gas valve that’s in there. The part is actually manufactured by a number of different manufacturers. So let’s pretend this one was made by White-Rodgers. There will be 2 part numbers on the valve, the Carrier number which might look like EF32CE233, and the White-Rodgers number which might look like 32C14-285. If you look for the Carrier number, you are looking for the O.E.M. which will always be more expensive. If you search under the White-Rodgers number, at this point you are looking for the aftermarket part. As you see, both numbers reference to the same part, just depending what part number you search for will determine how much the part will cost. Same part, different part numbers. All in all if you go with the O.E.M. you are really just paying for a name.

The rule above can be used in almost every case when looking for a replacement part. And as explained before, there is no difference between O.E.M. and aftermarket parts aside from the cost and paying for a name. All that is needed to find the aftermarket is to search for the actual part manufacturer’s part number to bypass that O.E.M. pricing. Now that you are armed with the proper information to locate the parts needed, you will save yourself a lot of time and money in the future when tending to your HVAC parts needs.

Replacing a Fan Blade: Finding one even if the original is obsolete

So your fan blade is broken/cracked/out of balance, etc. And your technician comes out and says the blade for your unit is obsolete, with no replacement so you will have to replace your entire system. This is a very common scenario. Not saying that all techs are shady and are trying to take advantage, but it does happen. Sometimes they legitimately just can't find it, but you really never know. So keep your guard up, and if this happens to you, know that there is a replacement out there for you. Follow along and I'll guide you through the process.

When replacing a fan blade, the first and best method for finding the right one for your unit is going to be by using your equipment model number or a part number if you can find it. This is the easiest way to reference what would be the direct replacement. Now, let's say your model number is faded or the blade does not have a part number labeled on it. You are still not sunk. At this point it becomes a matching game. There are 5 key bits of information required to find a replacement.

Those bits are:
1. Diameter across the entire blade
2. Number of blades
3. Direction of blade - Clockwise or Counter Clockwise (Read on to learn how to determine this)
4. Pitch of the blades (Read on to learn how to determine this)
5. Hub or Bore size

Once you can provide this information, finding a replacement is a snap. And they are not difficult to install. Just one simple set screw. So when removing the old blade you would just have to unscrew that and slide it off of the motor shaft. Now, sometimes the blades from years of being beaten by the elements will get frozen to the shaft. It will take some elbow grease, but you can remove it by carefully tapping it at the hub toward the face of the motor, and once below the area it was frozen to, you can use some sandpaper and sand the shaft til it becomes smooth again. After that, apply some lubricant to the shaft like WD-40 and the blade will slide off like butter.

Determining direction of blades:
This is pretty simple. Using a tactic known as the "Sandbox Method", you would hold the blade out in front of you flat, holding it by the hub, and drop it into a sandbox laying flat. If you were to hold the hub and spin it, which direction would it be going to where it would dig into the sand? Yes, it's that easy. And no, you don't have to go to the park to do this, as long as you can visualize the same thing.

Determining pitch:
The pitch is the degree to which the blades are angled. This is a bit trickier than the sandbox method. The best way would be to use a pitch guage, but if that is not available you can try using a protractor. Or, if you have a local refrigeration supply nearby, they might be able to gauge it for you.

So as you see, if someone tells you your part is obsolete , whether that be a fan blade or anything else, there is a very good chance there is a replacement out there somewhere. As long as you have the right information, your luck stands to be pretty good.

To see our Fan Blades, click here Fan Blades

Replacing a capacitor: When to replace and what are the indicators that it is bad?

Capacitors are often the reason for the downfall of your heating or air conditioning equipment. They are also one of the least expensive parts to have to replace, so it's always a good idea to check it out. Here, I will describe a capacitor and where to locate it in your unit, determine if it is bad using no diagnostic equipment, as well as how to locate the correct replacement for your unit.

***CAUTION*** Capacitors are charged with electricity. When attempting to remove a capacitor, always make sure to kill the power to the equipment you are working on and discharge the contacts on the capacitor (herein referred to as legs) by using a screwdriver with a non conductive handle (like plastic or wood) and laying the metal portion across the contacts (legs). This will spark but what you have now done is discharged the capacitor and made it safe to touch and remove. When removing a single run capacitor, take note of which wires were connected and label them. When removing a dual capacitor after completing the steps above, make sure to take note of what labeled terminal each wire is going to and label them accordingly to ensure proper installation of the replacement. Failure to follow these steps could result in injury or death.

Step 1: Locating the capacitor
A capacitor will always be tethered to the wires of your motor, whether that be a condenser motor (outside unit), or your blower motor (inside unit if a furnace or air handler, outside if a package unit). The wire color to follow in most all cases will be the brown wire. If you trace that wire it should lead you to something that either looks like a can of soup (round) with 2 or 3 legs coming off of the top, or an oval can with the same type of configuration, 2 or 3 legs. The difference here is that a capacitor with 2 legs is what is known as a "RUN" capacitor and it's only purpose is to help that motor run and nothing else. The capacitor with 3 legs on top is what is known as a "DUAL" capacitor which operates 2 parts, a condenser motor and a compressor, hence the "DUAL". FYI... A compressor will only be located on an outdoor unit, so you will never find a DUAL capacitor on an inside furnace or air handler.

Step 2: Diagnosis
When inspecting the capacitor, there are a few easy tell tale signs to let you know if it is bad or not. If it is leaking, is puffed out so that it does not have a perfectly flat bottom or is giving off a bad smell, the capacitor is bad. Another way is when trying to start the outdoor unit, only one of the 2 items connected (the compressor or condenser motor) runs, that is another good indicator that the capacitor is bad. When dealing with the indoor furnace or blower unit and attempting to start that, if the wheel is not spinning, you can take a stick and try to spin it manually. If it kicks on when doing this, the capacitor is bad. This method can also be used on the outdoor unit if the compressor is running but the fan blade is not spinning. Simply by taking a stick and trying to spin the blade through the fan guard, if the fan thn kicks on your capacitor is bad.

Step 3: Determining which capacitor you have
After you have located and discharged the capacitor (as instructed above), you can in most cases find the value of the capacitor by simply reading the side of it. There are 3 key bits to locating the correct replacement. What you will be looking for are the MFD (microfarrad) of UF (same thing) ratings first. If a single run capacitor, it would look something like 5uf or 5mfd for example (The number can be higher or lower depending on what it is being used with). If on a dual capacitor, the numbers may look something like 40/5uf or 40/5mfd. What you now have is the microfarrad value. Next to look for is the voltage or VAC rating. Usually this only comes in 2 values, either a 370vac or a 440vac. (Note: If your unit uses a 370vac typically but you can onlyfind a 440vac, a 440vac will work in the place of the 370vac. This is not something that can be reversed. So you CANNOT replace a 440vac with a 370vac. This will cause damage to your unit and possibly start a fire.) The 3rd key bit which is not functionally important to the running of the system, but may be an issue with mounting and room restrictions is the shape, either oval or round. The shape effects the functionality in no way.

Step 4: Installing your new capacitor
After you have obtained your new capacitor, installation is a breeze. As always, remember to kill all power to the equipment it is going back into.

For a single run capacitor: These only have 2 legs, and hence will only use 2 wires. The polarity cannot be reversed on this type so once you have relocated (and hopefully labeled as capacitor wires at the time of removing the faulty capacitor) the capacitor wires, simply take one of them and plug it on to one of the legs of the new capacitor. Then take the other wire and plug it on to the other leg. It does not matter which one each wire goes to, as long as each wire has it's own leg. Now you're done!

For a dual capacitor: These are a bit more tricky than a single run capacitor because they use more wires. The dual capacitor will have 3 legs and each one having an embossed reference or initial next to it indicating what that leg is for. The "F" or "FAN" leg is for the brown wire from the fan motor. The "H" or "HERM" leg is for the compressor. And the "C" or "COM" terminal is for the common wires. Plug them in the same way as the one they were attached to before and that's it, you're done!

To see our Capacitors, click here Capacitors

What information is needed in looking for replacement parts for my heating or air conditioning equipment?

This is a good and very common question. There are a couple of ways to find the information that is needed, depending on what kind of unit you have that the parts are needed for. Below I have listed all the most common scenarios.

Part Numbers: This is an excellent way of finding that specific part you are looking for. Most all parts have a label on them listing the manufacturer's part number, as well as the OEM part number made for the equipment manufacturer. So as to better explain, the companies that make the actual equipment that the parts go into do not actually make their own parts. They are outsourced by various manufacturers such as Honeywell, Robertshaw, Johnson Controls and so on. So these companies put their part number on the item, as well as label the part for the company making the equipment it's going into such as Carrier, Trane or Lennox. If you can locate these numbers, in most cases it will result in finding the exact part swiftly and with ease.

Gas Furnaces: Gas furnaces will always have the equipment model number located inside the unit along with the serial number. This will be on a label located near the burner assembly. Where the serial number is good to have, it will not identify the parts in your unit. So if there is no part number available, the only other way to locate the parts needed is with that equipment manufacturer's model number.

Heat Pumps, Package Units & Condensing Units: These types of equipment will always have the equipment model number and serial number located on a label or a plate usually to the back of the unit on the outside. A problem that usually comes of this location of this vital information is that due to the elements, the numbers quite often fade away with age and weather. So it is a very good idea to record this information and keep it in a safe place that you can easily access when in need of repair parts.

Electric Air Handlers: This type of unit is the indoor blower unit which in most cases houses an electric heat strip for heating or emergency back up heat. The model and serial numbers for this type of equipment will be located on the outside of the unit, usually on the door.

Evaporator Coils: For evaporator coils, the placement of the model and serial numbers is all dependent on the type of casing around it. If the coil came cased, then the numbers will be located on the front side of the coil on the outside of the casing. If the case was made by the contractor who did the installation, then you would need to look inside of the casing to try to find the model number on the coil itself.

Ready to look for your repair parts? Click here Parts Locator