Determining the size of your outdoor heat pump condenser unit: Is it properly sized for the home?

In most all cases, the equipment model number has the size of the unit included in the model number. This is referred to as the horsepower (H.P.) or as tons, but ultimately it is referring to the BTU’s (British Thermal Units). It is very important to have the proper sized system for your home to prevent excessive use and high energy costs, as well as adequate efficiency. For example, say your model number looks something like 58MAV036000AAAA… this is a typical sequence for a Carrier unit. The 036 indicates the BTU’s, so that translates into 36,000 BTU’s.

This information as stated before will also be referred to as H.P. or tons. One ton is 12,000 BTU’s, or one H.P.. So with a 036 or a 36,000 BTU unit, this would be known as a 3 ton unit, or a 3 H.P.. Pretty simple right? Next I’ll address how to make sure the unit is the proper size for your house.

Easiest rule of thumb is just to remember 500 square feet is equivalent to one ton. So if your house has 1500 square feet, that would be how many tons? If you said 3 you’re correct. Not really rocket surgery is it? Now we can review by taking a look at the chart I have provided below.

500 square feet = 12,000 BTU’s = 1 Ton = 1 H.P.

1000 square feet = 24,000 BTU’s = 2 Tons = 2 H.P.

1500 square feet = 36,000 BTU’s = 3 Tons = 3 H.P.

2000 square feet = 48,000 BTU’s = 4 Tons = 4 H.P.

2500 square feet = 60,000 BTU’s = 5 Tons = 5 H.P. and so on…

So there you have it. Sizing and verifying the condenser or heat pump size broken down for the easiest calculation. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us toll free at (866) 432-8551 or visit us at http://www.americanhvacparts.com/

Heat Pump, Condenser or Furnace, OH MY! Choosing the proper replacement thermostat

In this week’s episode, we are going to explore the process of choosing the proper thermostat for your system. There are quite a few different choices, so it is important to know the type of system you have. With all the different systems, this can be a bit confusing, but don’t fret… we are here to help. Alright then, let’s start by listing the various types of thermostats and what they are used with.

There are:

•1 Heat/1 Cool – Used with standard gas or electric heat and electric a/c units & are typically 24 volt

• 2 Heat/1 Cool – Used with heat pump, gas or electric heat units and electrical a/c units & are typically 24 volt

• 2 Heat/2 Cool - Used with heat pump, gas or electric heat units and electrical a/c units & are typically 24 volt

• 3 Heat/2 Cool – Used with Multi Zone, heat pump, gas or electric heat units and electrical a/c units & are typically 24 volt

• Millivolt – Used with millivolt (Usually wall heating units or cooling units)

• Line Voltage – Used with 120/240 volt systems (Usually like an attic fan application)

• Evaporator Cooler – Used with evaporator coolers

These can also have variances of but not limited to…

• Programmable

• Non-Programmable

• Commercial

• Residential

• Wireless

• Heating only

• Cooling Only

• Phone controlled

• Internet controlled

• Remote Controlled etc…

Then there are the different manufacturers. Here are some of the most common types:

•Honeywell

• Robertshaw

• Johnson Controls

• Totaline

• White-Rodgers

• Lux

The best advice that can be given to replace a thermostat is to compare to what you already have. This gives you a good place to start in terms of what you will need. You can also take a part number from your existing thermostat and use that to either locate the direct replacement or a functional equivalent. If you are just not sure, you can always visit www.americanhvacparts.com or call toll free to (866) 432-8551 for assistance in finding the perfect fit replacement for you and your system’s needs. It is NOT recommended that you just pick one because you like how it looks, or the back light is a pretty blue or any other non-educated reason because it probably won’t work once you get it. And most places will not take back electrical parts, so if you just aren’t sure get the help you need. That is what we are here for, you the homeowner and helping you make the right choice the first time.

Your compressor failed… Now what?

Well this is a kind of bittersweet situation. A compressor is the most expensive part that can go out in your air conditioner or heat pump, so replacing it can become fairly pricey. This is also an item that cannot be replaced without the assistance of a professional, so there will be some technician costs that will be incurred as well. Already sounds pretty depressing right? Well, the plus side of this is that you don’t have to replace the whole system as some technicians may try to tell you. This is false. A compressor can be replaced fairly easy. It just takes the right information.

First, you will need to locate the model number from the condenser or heat pump. If this information is not available, the next step is to get the model number from off of the compressor itself. Once you are armed with the right information, you can contact a company such as www.americanhvacparts.com and provide what you have. Locating the correct replacement is going to be simple for them at that point.

The key here if you are wanting to purchase the replacement on your own instead of from the technician, is that you will want to make sure to arrange installation for when you get the compressor. Many technicians will not want to come out and install a part that you have obtained, because they want to sell you the item as well as do the work. So that’s why it is important to have a pre arranged agreement with your tech so that there are no surprises for him or you.

Now that the compressor has arrived and the technician is on his way, here is a rundown of what to expect. The tech will come out and begin to open the unit. Once the old failed compressor is exposed, your tech will take what is called a vacuum pump and evacuate the refrigerant from the system. Condensers and heat pumps are highly pressurized with the refrigerant gas, so that is why it is necessary to have this done first. After the refrigerant has been recovered and the system completely pumped down, the tech will next cut out the old compressor. After it has been removed, the new compressor can be seated in the unit and the lines brazed or welded in. The next step in the process is to pump the system back up with the refrigerant. The tech should now run a pressure test to make certain that there are no leaks. Assuming the job was done properly, that’s pretty much that. The time you may pay out to the technician will usually average around $300-$500, as this will also include the charges for the new refrigerant.

Now turn your system on and enjoy the cool air and the savings you made by replacing the compressor and not the whole system.

How to install an aftermarket condenser fan motor

AmericanHVACParts.com does not encourage or recommend that any uncertified or unqualified persons attempt these repairs. This information is for informational purposes only and AmericanHVACParts.com will not be held liable for any damages or injuries by attempting to make these repairs. 

The first thing to do to get this process going is to identify which motor you need. To do this, the best way to start is by going to the condensing unit or heat pump that the motor is coming out of and getting the model and serial numbers. There should be a label affixed to the outside of the unit, usually towards the back of the unit which will most likely be the side closest to the house or building. Sometimes, the unit has been installed so close, you will have to use a mirror and try to decipher the model number backwards in the reflection, but nonetheless, it can be done. In the event that the label is illegible or has been bleached away from years of sun exposure or other elements, there is still a way to make the identification on what you will need.

Ok, so the model number just isn’t there. What’s next? Now the unit will have to be opened up to get the information from the motor itself. If you are not familiar with what you are doing, we highly recommend that you retain the services of a professional to assist you. Now that the unit is opened up, your attention should be directed to the condenser motor. There will be a label on the side of the motor that will have lots of information on it. The first thing you will want to look for is any part or model numbers. Typically if the motor has never been replaced, there will be 2 identification numbers there. The important thing is to get as much information as possible. Get all part numbers, model numbers, just any numbers at all. Because if for any reason the numbers are not able to be located, we can assist you in finding it by the specifications. The key information besides part numbers in locating a motor are as follows:

-RPM’s

-Horsepower

-Voltage

-Phase

-Frame or Diameter size

-Shaft size

-Rotation (Not so important as most aftermarket motors are reversible)

With this information, a replacement can be matched up fairly easy. Now that a replacement has been found, it’s time to get that beauty purchased and on its way to you and don’t forget the capacitor. You’re more than half way there. Now that you have the motor, again we recommend retaining the services of a professional, but even they might have some confusion as to how to install it, so these are instructions for their convenience as well as for your knowledge. AND ALWAYS DISCONNECT POWER TO THE UNIT BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY KIND OF REPAIRS.

Most OEM condenser motors have only 3 wires… a power wire, a common wire and a capacitor wire. The old motor would be connected to a dual capacitor (described in earlier posts) which the new motor will NOT be using. So the old motor will be disconnected from the dual capacitor and removed, leaving the dual capacitor in the unit as it will continue to run your compressor. The new motor will come with 5 wires in almost all cases when replacing an OEM motor with an aftermarket motor. The wires will be black, purple, green, brown and brown with a white stripe. There will also be 2 wires that come out from the back of the motor and go back into the motor. These are connected in the middle with a white plastic plug, but we’ll come back to that later. The black and purple wires will connect to the contactor on the opposite side of the contactor from where the live power wires that come from the house are connected. The brown and brown with white will go to the new capacitor, one wire to each of the 2 terminals. It doesn’t matter which each brown wire goes to as you cannot reverse the polarity of a single run capacitor. Next affix the green wire to the actual unit casing to establish a ground. After everything is wired in and the unit put back together, everything should fire up fine. In the event that the blade is spinning in the wrong direction, disconnect power once again, gain access to the motor and locate the 2 wires on the back of the motor that connect with the plastic white plug. To reverse the rotation, just pull that plug apart, flip one side over and plug it back together. And there you have it.

AmericanHVACParts.com does not encourage or recommend that any uncertified or unqualified persons attempt these repairs. This information is for informational purposes only and AmericanHVACParts.com will not be held liable for any damages or injuries by attempting to make these repairs.  

How to find the proper size supply or return grille for your home or office

The first thing to do when you have grilles to replace is identify the type and style. Is it a supply where the air blows out of the register? Or is it a return that the air gets sucked back into the system? Next is to identify the style. There are 3 basic styles to choose from. There is stamp faced, where the louvers have been stamped into and raised up out of the metal. Bar style is where the grille has a frame and individual bars making up the louvers. Then there is curve blade, where the blades actually extend out from the face of the register and curve, creating a more direct and intentional air flow.

When it's time to replace your grilles, which are often also called vents or registers, the information needed is pretty basic and easy to get. Many people will measure the overall size of the grille, but this is the incorrect way to go about it and will land you with a grille that is just too big to fit. The proper way to size up your register is to actually remove the register from the wall, floor or ceiling and set it aside for now.

Next, you will actually be measuring the cut out, or hole size. You will need to get the width as well as the height, and then present the measurements in this order when obtaining your replacement. For example, let's say you measured a width of 16" and a height of 10". If you ask for a 16"x10", you will get the proper size. But, if you ask for a 10"x16", you will wind up with a register that is 10" wide and 16" tall, so the orientation will be backwards. It will still fit, but the air flow will not be proper for your application. And it will look kind of funny and out of place.

The overall dimension of the new grille will be larger than your measurements, and this is fine. That is why we measure the hole and not the overall dimension. There will be a 1 7/8" lip going around the whole grille, and this is to cover paint marks, holes etc.

And that's really all there is to finding a replacement register. You can take a look at all the various types and styles by clicking on the link for supply grilles, and for returns. And if you are interested in some specialty wood or decorative grilles, you can click here.